Dear Uwe,
You're mostly correct in that IKLEM1 is the array you should be looking at. However, this array is only used when using edge-based storage (MATRIX STORAGE = 3), which might explain why it appears to be empty. The default, according to the latest manual available on this site, is MATRIX STORAGE = 1 (EBE storage).
I see two options for you:
1) Use MATRIX STORAGE = 3, which should activate the IKLEM1 array and speed up the code (a nice bonus!)
2) Retain the default options, and construct the array yourself. Depending on what you want to do with it, might it be easier just to loop through the elements and consider pairs of neighbours each time?
I hope that's useful - please ask if you need to know anything more.
Best wishes,
Chris